Introduction Indiana does not have a reputation as a destination. This is, on balance, Indiana’s gain — because it means that one of the most scenically bizarre and genuinely spectacular stretches of the southern Lake Michigan shoreline remains, relative to its...
Introduction There’s a particular kind of surprise that comes from finding genuinely good hiking within commuting distance of a major American city. You’ve been conditioned to expect asphalt paths, aggressive cyclists, and lake views interrupted by...
Introduction Christchurch doesn’t immediately read as a hiking destination. It’s a flat city on a flat plain, still putting itself back together after the earthquakes, and the hills that frame it to the east are easy to overlook when you’re...
Introduction Wanaka operates on a different register to Queenstown. Queenstown wants to accelerate you — bungee you, jet-boat you, send you off a ledge at speed and sell you the photographs. Wanaka, forty minutes up the road, wants you to slow down, look at the lake,...
Introduction There’s an interpretive sign at the Franz Josef Glacier lookout that politely, clearly, and with considerable scientific restraint, explains that future generations will likely have to walk farther up the valley to see the glacier at all. It sits in...
Introduction New Zealand has a talent for making you feel specifically, personally victimised by its weather. Not in a malicious way — more in the way a cat ignores you while being perfectly friendly to everyone else in the room. The mountains are right there. They...
