That Wanaka Tree, Two Wheels, and the Best Decision We Made All Trip

by | Mar 27, 2025 | Hikes, Oceania, Recent Treks

Introduction

Wanaka operates on a different register to Queenstown. Queenstown wants to accelerate you — bungee you, jet-boat you, send you off a ledge at speed and sell you the photographs. Wanaka, forty minutes up the road, wants you to slow down, look at the lake, and maybe have a slightly better coffee. It has the same mountains and the same extraordinary water and a fraction of the noise, which is either a well-kept secret or simply the reward for not following the crowd.

We arrived in the afternoon, which meant two things happened in the right order: first, a walk from town along the lakefront to pay our respects to what is arguably the most photographed tree in New Zealand; and second, a 30-kilometre one-way e-bike ride from Hawea back to Wanaka along the river trail with NZ Bike Trails — shuttle out, bike collected at the far end, Pembroke Patisserie in the middle — which proved to be one of the genuine highlights of the trip — with one section that I will describe accurately as harrowing if you are not deeply comfortable on a bicycle on a narrow trail above a turquoise river.

Both are worth your time. The order matters. The coffee at the end is not optional.

Part One: The Wanaka Tree (The Afternoon Before)

What It Is and Why You’re Going Anyway

“That Wanaka Tree” — which is its actual, unironic name and has its own Instagram account with more followers than most people — is a willow tree growing from the bed of Lake Wanaka, a few metres from the shore, at a point where the Pembroke Park lakefront meets the water. It is, technically, just a tree. It grows in a lake. It has branches. It is, also, one of those subjects that earns its reputation completely, because the combination of the solitary tree, the still water of Lake Wanaka, the Buchanan Peaks across the lake, and whatever the sky is doing at any given moment produces photographs that should by rights look staged and do not.

At golden hour — the hour before sunset, when the mountains across the lake catch alpenglow and the water goes still and the light turns every surface amber and rose — it is genuinely something to stand in front of.

[Featured photo: The Wanaka Tree at golden hour — lone willow in the shallows of Lake Wanaka, the Buchanan Peaks catching last light behind, ducks doing their own thing in the foreground. This is what you’re walking to.]

The Walk from Town

The walk from Wanaka township to the tree is flat, lakefront, and takes approximately 15–20 minutes from the main town beach. Follow the lake edge south from the town centre — the path is well-formed, popular, and impossible to get wrong. The tree is visible from some distance before you reach it, which gives you time to observe the queue of other people also photographing it and decide where to position yourself for a version of the shot that doesn’t include seventeen other people’s smartphones.

Early morning and late afternoon are the best times for the light and the thinnest crowds. We went in the late afternoon heading toward golden hour, which proved to be correct: the alpenglow on the mountains across the lake timed itself almost exactly with our arrival, the lake was calm, and the light on the tree was exactly what the photographs promise.

Spend time here. Walk the shoreline in both directions from the tree. The mountain and lake combination visible from this stretch of shore is consistently extraordinary and the tree is only one version of it.

Part Two: The Lake Wanaka and Hawea Trails with NZ Bike Trails

The Decision to Go Electric (And Why It Was the Right One)

Let me say this plainly: we chose the electric-assisted bikes and we have zero regrets about that decision. None. The e-bike option through NZ Bike Trails is not a concession to laziness — it is a practical acknowledgment that the Wanaka and Hawea trail network covers meaningful distance, includes sections of varied terrain, and is considerably more enjoyable when you can give the uphills the appropriate level of enthusiasm without arriving at every viewpoint looking like you need medical attention.

The trails wind between Lake Wanaka and Lake Hawea, the two bodies of water separated by a narrow isthmus at the township of Hawea — a route that takes in two different lake systems, the Clutha/Mata-Au River corridor, and a variety of terrain that includes open lakeside tracks, river-edge singletrack, and sections of forested trail that give the day genuine variety. The electric assist means you cover ground at a pace that lets you actually look at things, which seems like the point.

NZ Bike Trails runs the operation with satisfying efficiency: shuttles leave Wanaka at 9am, 10:30am, and 12:30pm, dropping you at the trail start in Hawea (or at the end of the Gladstone Track for the 10:30am departure), and your bike is collected from you back in Wanaka when you’re done. The package — NZ$165 per person — includes the e-bike, helmet, lock, repair kit, pump, and an 8-litre Topeak day bag that mounts on the rear rack so you’re not carrying a rucksack on your back. There are water bottle holders on the bike. The whole logistics question, in other words, is handled.

The bikes themselves are Sinch e-bikes — solid, well-maintained machines that handle the varied trail surfaces comfortably and make the river-edge sections feel manageable rather than terrifying. Booking is essential, and if you want the full day experience with enough time to stop at the Pembroke Patisserie — more on that shortly, and it requires its own mention — book the 9am or 10:30am shuttle. The 12:30pm departure may not leave enough time to reach Albert Town before the patisserie closes at 2pm, which would be a loss worth preventing.

[Featured photo: Two people, one helmet, one very good view — Lake Wanaka behind, mountains, blue sky. This is the moment where you stop cycling and take the selfie that proves you were here.]

The Trail: What It’s Actually Like

The route runs one-way from Hawea back to Wanaka — a shuttle takes you out to the start, and the 30 kilometres bring you home under your own (electrically assisted) power. The trail follows the lake edges and river corridor through terrain that alternates between wide, easy gravel track and narrower singletrack sections that require actual attention and actual bike-handling skills. The scenery is consistent and consistently extraordinary: Lake Hawea at the start, then the Clutha/Mata-Au River running turquoise and fast between its banks as you work south and west, then Lake Wanaka opening up ahead as you approach the finish. It is a genuinely spectacular environment to move through at bike pace.

The Pembroke Patisserie, Albert Town (Do Not Ride Past It)

Approximately midway along the route, the trail passes through or near Albert Town — a small settlement between Hawea and Wanaka — where the Pembroke Patisserie operates until 2pm and is, by any measure, the correct place to stop. Coffee, baked goods, and a genuinely good café experience in a location that makes no apologies for being exactly what a mid-ride stop should be.

The timing matters: the patisserie closes at 2pm, which is why NZ Bike Trails specifically recommends the 9am or 10:30am shuttle if you want to make it. The 12:30pm departure is a gamble you probably lose. Book early, ride at a pace that includes stopping, and have the coffee and something from the cabinet. This is not optional.

[Featured photo: On the narrow trail beside the turquoise Clutha River — the path pressed between tree cover and the river edge, autumn colour starting in the willows, mountains visible through the gap. This is where you slow down and pay attention.]

Here is the honest section: there are parts of this trail that are narrow. Properly narrow — singletrack pressed against a river bank, with the turquoise water of the Clutha moving fast below the trail edge and not a great deal of margin for navigational imprecision. For confident, experienced cyclists, this is fine and actually a highlight: the river views from trail-edge are extraordinary, the surface is manageable, and the proximity to the water adds a kinetic quality to the riding that open gravel tracks don’t have.

For those who are less comfortable on bikes — who perhaps haven’t ridden much recently, or who find narrow trails with exposure to one side a source of anxiety rather than entertainment — these sections will be harrowing. This is not a criticism of the trail. It is accurate information. The e-bikes do not make the narrow sections wider. They do, however, mean you can approach them with enough energy in reserve to focus on technique rather than survival.

Our recommendation: if you’re comfortable on a bike, you’ll love every section. If you’re not, be honest with yourself and with the NZ Bike Trails team before you go — they know their product and can advise accordingly.

The Patisserie, Revisited

Outstanding. We’re going to leave it at that and let the superlative stand. After meaningful kilometres on the bikes, in that setting, with lakes and mountains framing everything in every direction, a well-timed stop is not just food — it’s the punctuation the ride deserves. Do not ride past it. Do not convince yourself you’re not hungry. You are hungry. Stop.

Doing Both: The Perfect Wanaka Day

The Wanaka Tree walk and the NZ Bike Trails e-bike ride work perfectly as a single full day — afternoon into evening for the tree, the full following day for the ride. Or, if you’re ambitious, the tree at sunrise before the ride departs. Either way, one day in Wanaka is enough to fit both in, though the town has a particular talent for making you wish you’d booked an extra night.

The Tree First: Walk to the Wanaka Tree in the late afternoon for golden hour light. The walk from town takes 20 minutes, the lingering takes as long as you let it, and you’re back in town in time for a proper dinner before an early start the next morning.

The Ride: NZ Bike Trails shuttles depart at 9am, 10:30am, and 12:30pm from Wanaka — book the 9am or 10:30am if you want a comfortable stop at the Pembroke Patisserie in Albert Town before it closes at 2pm. The route runs 30 kilometres from Hawea back to Wanaka along the river trail, taking approximately 2.5 hours of riding time with the e-assist. Your bike is collected from you in Wanaka at the end — you ride one way and arrive home. It is, as day structures go, a satisfying one.

This leaves the late afternoon for the things Wanaka does effortlessly: sitting at a lakefront café, walking the town beach, wondering why you didn’t plan to stay longer.

What to Wear and Bring for the Bike Ride

NZ Bike Trails provides bikes, helmets, and route support. You bring yourself and the following:

  • Comfortable riding clothes — not necessarily lycra, but nothing that will catch in the chain or restrict movement. Layers are wise: the valley can be cool in the morning and warm by midday.
  • Sunscreen — the open lake sections have no shade and the New Zealand UV index is not theoretical.
  • Sunglasses — essential for the river sections where the light on the turquoise water is intense.
  • Closed-toe shoes with a sole that grips — not sandals, not flip-flops, not dress shoes. Something your foot is actually connected to.
  • A small pack or the bike’s storage — for a layer, water, sunscreen, phone. The bikes have some storage; travel light.
  • Water — NZ Bike Trails will advise on hydration logistics, but bring a bottle as a baseline.

For the Wanaka Tree walk, you need nothing more than comfortable shoes and whatever camera you prefer. The path is flat, well-formed, and ten minutes from anywhere in the town centre.

Practical Details

NZ Bike Trails

  • Cost: NZ$165 per person (at time of writing — confirm current pricing at booking)
  • Product code: PSEV7W
  • Shuttle times: 9am, 10:30am, 12:30pm from Wanaka
  • Duration: Approximately 2.5 hours riding; full day out
  • Distance: ~30km, Hawea to Wanaka (one way — bike collected at finish)
  • Included: E-bike, helmet, lock, repair kit, pump, 8L rear rack bag, water bottle holders
  • Contact: David — +64 27 202 8686 (call or WhatsApp)
  • Booking: Essential. Do not assume walk-up availability.
  • Patisserie timing: Book the 9am or 10:30am shuttle to reach Pembroke Patisserie in Albert Town before 2pm closing
  • Children: Suitable for confident riders 8 years and older, 130cm+ height minimum. Specialised children’s bikes available — contact David for options.

The Wanaka Tree Walk

  • Free, unguided, starts from Wanaka township lakefront
  • Best light: golden hour before sunset, or early morning
  • The tree is fenced to protect its root system — there’s a clearly marked viewing area; respect it
  • Parking is available in town; it’s a short walk to the lakefront from anywhere central

Wanaka Township

  • Café and restaurant options are strong for a town this size — ask locally for current recommendations
  • Accommodation books out quickly in summer; plan ahead
  • The town is small enough to navigate entirely on foot, which is either charming or limiting depending on your expectations

Seasonal Considerations

Summer (December–February): Peak season, best weather, busiest trails. Book NZ Bike Trails well in advance. The Wanaka Tree at sunset in summer is a well-attended event — arrive early for your preferred position. The lake is warm enough to swim in, which changes the character of the town considerably.

Autumn (March–May): The best season for the bike trails. The willows and poplars along the Clutha River corridor turn gold and amber, the light is warmer and more directional, and the visitor numbers drop after Easter. The Wanaka Tree in autumn, with the mountains behind and the lake still and cold, is arguably better than summer. The photographs from this season are consistently outstanding.

Winter (June–August): Cold, occasionally snowy on the surrounding peaks, and quieter. The bike trails are still rideable on good days — the e-bikes handle cool temperatures well — and the Wanaka Tree in winter, bare-branched and stark against snow-covered mountains, is a completely different and equally compelling image.

Spring (September–November): Variable and vivid. The willows along the trail corridors are bright new green, the lake is clear, and the mountains still carry snow at altitude. The tree is coming back into leaf. One of the more photogenic seasons for both activities.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Underestimating the narrow trail sections. They are genuinely narrow in places and the river is genuinely close. Be honest about your comfort level on bikes before committing. The e-bikes give you energy, not handling skills.
  • Skipping the e-bike option to prove a point. The point is the scenery, not the cardiovascular output. Take the electric assist and look at the lake.
  • Going to the Wanaka Tree at midday. The light is flat, the sun is overhead, and the alpenglow on the mountains that makes the photograph is not happening. Morning or late afternoon, always.
  • Forgetting to book NZ Bike Trails in advance. Particularly in summer. Particularly on weekends. This is not a walk-up activity.
  • Skipping the lunch stop. This has been mentioned. It stands.
  • Rushing Wanaka. The town rewards a slower pace. It is not Queenstown. It is not trying to be. Two nights minimum; three is better.

FAQs

Do I need to be a confident cyclist to do the Hawea to Wanaka trail? Honest answer: moderately confident, yes. NZ Bike Trails describes it as a relatively easy, family-friendly 30km ride on e-bikes — and for most of it, that’s accurate. The majority of the trail is wide, easy gravel track. The narrow river-edge singletrack sections require genuine bike handling and comfort with some exposure. The e-bikes help with fitness but not with trail confidence. If you’re a nervous cyclist, be honest with David at NZ Bike Trails when you book — he knows the product and can advise on whether it’s the right fit.

Are e-bikes worth it for this trail? Unambiguously yes. The trail covers meaningful distance between two lake systems, the e-assist lets you enjoy the views rather than survive the uphills, and you arrive at lunch and at the end of the day in considerably better condition than you would have on a standard bike. There is no downside.

How do I get to the Wanaka Tree? Walk south from Wanaka township along the lakefront. The tree is visible from the path, roughly 20 minutes from the main town beach. Alternatively, drive to the Pembroke Park car park and it’s a short walk from there.

Is the Wanaka Tree fenced off? Yes — a small protective fence surrounds the root system to prevent damage from the large number of visitors. You can photograph from the designated viewing area, which gives an entirely adequate and often better-composed shot than being directly next to the tree.

What’s the difference between guided and self-guided with NZ Bike Trails? The guided option includes route leadership, support, and the included lunch stop. Self-guided provides the bikes and a map and leaves routing to you. For first-time visitors to the trails, the guided option is worth the additional investment — particularly for the narrow sections, where having a guide who knows the terrain is reassuring.

Conclusion: Two Days Well Spent

Wanaka has the particular quality of places that improve the longer you stay. The first afternoon you get the town and the tree and the lake and the mountains. The second morning you get the trails and the river and the other lake and the lunch and the view from a bike seat that is, in its own way, completely different from every other view you’ve had all week.

The Wanaka Tree at golden hour, with the alpenglow on the Buchanan Peaks and the lake going still and the light doing what the light does at that hour in that place, is one of the images that stays. Not because it’s rare — thousands of people photograph it every year — but because it earns it. The tree has been there long enough to have seen the lake at every mood and every season, and it sits in the water with the calm of something that has nothing to prove.

The bike trails have a different energy: kinetic, varied, occasionally demanding, consistently spectacular. The turquoise river below the narrow singletrack, the two lake systems framing the day at either end, the lunch in the middle — it is, as a morning out, a very good argument for slowing down your South Island itinerary and staying an extra day somewhere that rewards it.

Wanaka rewards it.

Wanaka Tree walk: self-guided, free, golden hour, highly recommended. NZ Bike Trails e-bike ride: Hawea to Wanaka, 30km, Sinch e-bikes, NZ$165, shuttle out, bike collected at finish, outstanding. Pembroke Patisserie stop: made the 9am shuttle, made the patisserie, no regrets. Narrow river trail sections: accurately harrowing. Duration in Wanaka: not long enough.